Yousef Akbar celebrates ‘power of women’ through SS24 presentation at Riyadh Fashion Week
RIYADH: The poignant eveningwear of Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi served as the inaugural Riyadh Fashion Week’s opening act last night. Dozens of elegantly clad Saudi men and women, celebrities and members of the press met inside a temporary rectangular structure in front of the King Fahd National Library last night to witness Ashi’s latest collection, 8pm. The show, marking the designer’s first in his hometown, serves as a celebration of his Saudi heritage and the cosmopolitan glamor of Riyadh.
Known for his romantic and geometric, often highly sculpted looks, Ashi revealed evening wear inspired by the beauty of the desert at night. Models strutted down the runway — formed in a square format around a dramatic installation comprising what appeared to be several large gray rocks — donning long robes, dresses and pant suits enhanced with large, elaborate sculpted puff sleeves, long fringe in various materials to signify movement and ball gowns with embellished trails.
Ashi’s meticulous handcrafted designs reigned supreme as the models showcased designs that effortlessly married traditional local looks with more avant-garde contemporary statement pieces. Graceful, yet bold shapes synonymous with the gentle curves of the sand dunes could be found throughout the collection.
Nods to the abaya could be found in many looks — often fused with more seductive cuts, perhaps worn as a robe on top of a short, embellished dress or as long fabric trails extending from the shoulders of a fitted, jewel-studded gown.
While white dominated the collection, symbolizing the light of the night, the shimmering of stars and the glow from the moon, a few looks championed color, including a shimmering long metallic robe, a deep crimson pant suit and cape with a large sculpted floral brooch, and a deep magenta short dress with oversize ruffled sleeves.
Basking in femininity, grace and strength, Ashi’s new line reflects grand soir dressing and occasion wear.
Ashi’s homecoming to Saudi came after the designer spent 15 years working in Paris and on the international fashion circuit.
“Mohammed Ashi has already made history as the first Saudi designer to join the ranks of haute couture,” Burak Cakmak, CEO of the Saudi Fashion Commission, said in a statement. “As a leader in Saudi fashion, we are incredibly honored to invite him back to Saudi during another historical moment in time — Riyadh Fashion Week.”
In July, Ashi staged a show on the official Haute Couture calendar in Paris, becoming the first designer from the Gulf to join the hallowed ranks of couture designers who are featured at the event.
The show took place at Paris’ Theatre du Chatelet and was titled “The Essence.” Inspired by German author Patrick Suskind’s 1985 novel “Perfume,” the collection was an exploration of “passion, obsession and mystery,” according to the show notes. Ashi’s new line offered a “bold and poetic ode to dark romance, diversity and sensuality tinged with danger.”
Ashi, who joined the Federation de la Haute Couture as a guest member, launched his eponymous house 17 years ago. He was one of five designers from the Middle East to have taken part in the official Haute Couture calendar this summer, besides Georges Hobeika, Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab, all of whom hail from Lebanon, and Morocco-born Sara Chraibi.
His designs have been worn by A-list celebrities such as Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Hudson, Kylie Minogue, Penelope Cruz, Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Queen Rania of Jordan and more.
Ashi previously told Arab News: “I am incredibly proud of my Saudi roots … my designs are often influenced by Saudi heritage.”
